简介：在这份报纸，一个数字模型被建立。一个修改N-S方程为波浪地和多孔的流动区域被用作一个控制方程。控制方程是discreted并且由有限差别方法解决。免费表面被VOF方法追踪。整个流动区域的压力地和速度地被反覆的重复方法解决。与波浪斜槽的物理模型测试结果相比，最后，数字模型在礼品证实学习被验证。

简介：Theexperimentalstudiesofthewavebreakingeffectsonfreakwavegenerationarepresentedwithinafinite-depthrandomwavetraininalaboratorywavetank.Themainattentionispaidtotheabnormalindex,AI=Hmax/Hs,beingusedtocharacterizethefreakwaves,andthechangesofthecoefficientduetowavebreaking.Theresultsshowthattheoccurrenceprobabilityoffreakwaveeventsinnon-breakingwavesismuchlargerthanthatinbreakingwavesandsuchoccurrenceindeepwaterislargerthanthatinshallowwater.

简介：Waveabsorbingstructureshavebeenwidelyappliedinmanycountries.Inthepresentpaper,thewaveheightsinfrontofaverticalwaveabsorbingstructurewithrubblefoundationaswellasinthewavechamberofthestructureareanalysedusinganapproximativecalculationmethod,andthedissipatingeffectofthestructureisverified.Onthebasisoftheresultsofregularwaves,therelativewaveheightsofirregularwavesinfrontofthewaveabsorbingstructureaswellasinthechamberhavealsobeenanalysed.

简介：一辆数字波浪坦克被用来调查非强迫的波浪碎的发作和力量，并且波浪有起始的系列的三种类型：经常的振幅光谱，经常的险峻光谱和Pierson-Moscowitz光谱。数字测试被执行验证模型结果。然后，波浪碎的发作与几何、运动学、动态的碎标准被讨论。波浪碎的力量，它是总是由部分精力损失和碎力量系数描绘了，为不同系列被学习。结果显示出精力生长率怎么比估计部分精力损失以及碎力量系数上的起始的波浪险峻好。

简介：最近，数字波浪坦克成为了一个使用得广泛地的工具学习波浪以及波浪结构相互作用，并且吸收波浪的方法作为它产生的波浪的质量上的效果很重要。然而，松驰方法和导出的动量来源方法经常被利用抑制重量在计算期间是不变的并且重复试用被要求获得可接受的吸收波浪的效果。处理上述的问题，一个保存吸收波浪的方法被开发。抑制重量被解决吸收区域的集体保存方程在决定每次走。基于这个方法，一辆二维的数字波浪坦克被使用VB语言模仿这个方法的确认被评估的各种各样的波浪建立。

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简介：Basedonthetimedependentmildslopeequationincludingtheeffectofwaveenergydissipation,anexpressionfortheenergydissipationfactorisderivedinconjunctionwiththewaveenergybalanceequation,andthenapracticalmethodforthesimulationofwaveheightandwaveset-upinnearshoreregionsispresented.Thevariationofthecomplexwaveamplitudeisnumericallysimulatedbyuseoftheparabolicmildslopeequationincludingtheeffectofwaveenergydissipationduetowavebreaking.Thecomponentsofwaveradiationstressarecalculatedsubsequentlybynewexpressionsforthemaccordingtotheobtainedcomplexwaveamplitude,andthenthedepth-averagedequationisappliedtothecalculationofwaveset-upduetowavebreaking.Numericalresultsareingoodagreementwithexperimentaldata,showingthattheexpressionfortheenergydissipationfactorisreasonableandthatthenewmethodiseffectiveforthesimulationofwaveset-upduetowavebreakinginnearshoreregions.

简介：ThewaveCoriolis-Stokes-Force-modifiedoceanmomentumequationsarereviewedinthispaperandthewaveStokestransportispointedouttobepartoftheoceancirculations.UsingtheEuropeanCentreforMedium-RangeWeatherForecasts40-yearreanalysisdata(ERA-40data)andtheSimpleOceanDataAssimilation(SODA)version2.2.4data,themagnitudeofthistransportiscomparedwiththatofwind-drivenSverdruptransportanda5-to-10-precentcontributionbythewaveStokestransportisfound.Bothtransportsarestrongerinborealwinterthaninsummers.Thewaveeffectcanbeeithercontributionorcancellationindifferentseasons.ExaminationwithKuroshiotransportverifiessimilarseasonalvariations.Theclarificationoftheefficientwaveboundaryconditionhelpstounderstandtheroleofwavesinmasstransport.Itactsassurfacewindstressandcanbefunctionaldowntothebottomoftheageostrophiclayer.Thepumpingvelocitiesresultingfromwave-inducedstressarezonallydistributedandaresignificantinrelativelyhighlatitudes.Furtherworkwillfocusonthemodelperformanceofthewave-stress-changed-boundaryandtheroleofswellsintheeasternpartoftheoceans.

简介：Theauthorsmakeanendeavortoexplainwhyanewhybridwavemodelishereproposedwhenseveralsuchmodelshavealreadybeeninoperationandtheso-calledthirdgenerationwavemodejisprovingattractive.Thispartofthepaperisdevotedtothewindwavemodel.Bothdeepandshallowwatermodelshavebeendeveloped,theformerbeingactuallyaspecialcaseofthelatterwhenwaterdepthisgreat.Thedeepwatermodelisexceptionallysimpleinform.Significantwaveheightistheonlyprognosticvariable.Incomparisonwiththeusualmethodstocomputetheenergyinputanddissipationsempiricallyorby"tuning",theproposedmodelhasthemeritthattheeffectsofallsourcetermsarecombinedintoonetermwhichiscomputedthroughempiricalgrowthrelationsforsignificantwaves,theserelationsbeing,relativelyspeaking,easierandmorereliabletoobtainthanthoseforthesourcetermsinthespectralenergybalanceequation.Thediscretepartofthemodelandtheimplementationofthemode

简介：Thestatisticaldistributionofwavecrestcharacteristicssuchascrestlength,crestheight,jointcrestheightandlengthareanalyzedbasedonnumericalsimulationof3-Drandomwaves.Theeffectsofdirectionalfunctionsandwavecrestdefiningmethodsoncrestcharacteristicsarealsostudied.Theresultsshowthatwavecrestsarenolongeruniformandcontinuousindirectionalwavefield;thedistributionofcrestlengthisobviouslyinfluencedbythedirectionalfunction;thestatisticsofcrestcharacteristicsobtainedbythetwodifferentmethodsarealmostthesame.

简介：Anewmethodoftreatingmaximumwaveheightasarandomvariableinreliabilityanalysisofbreakwatercaissonsisproposed.Themaximumwaveheightisexpressedasthesignificantwaveheightmultipliedbytheso-calledwaveheightratio.Theproposedwaveheightratioisatypeoftransferfunctionfromthesignificantwaveheighttothemaximumwaveheight.Undertheconditionofabreakingwave,theratioisintrinsicallynonlinear.Therefore,theprobabilitydensityfunctionforthe

简介：Regularandirregularwaveforcesactingonverticalwallsarestudiedbyapreviouslydevelopednumericalmodel.Thecomputedwaveforcesarecomparedwiththeavailableexperimentaldatatoverifythenumericalmodel,andsatisfactoryagreementsareobtained.Thevariationofwaveforceswithincidentanglesandtheshapeofsimultaneouspressuredistributionareinvestigated,andthecomparisonsbetweennumericalresultsandGoda'spredictionsarealsocarriedout.Itisconcludedthatthemaximumwaveforcesactingontheunitlengthofverticalwallisofteninducedbytheobliquelyincidentwavesinsteadofnormallyincidentwaves,whileGoda'sformulamaybeinapplicableforobliquewaveincidence.Theshapeofsimultaneouspressuredistributionisnotsignificantlyinfluencedbyincidentangles,anditcanbefavorablypredictedbyGoda'sformula.WhenregularwaveheightsaretakenasthesameasirregularwaveheightH1%,theirregularwaveforcesPh,1%areslightlylargerthanregularwaveforcesinmostcases.

简介：Someauthorshavedevelopedafewmethodsofmeasuringwaveslopesbasedonlightrefraction,includingthemeasurementmethodviathedistributionoflightintensityorcolorunderwater.Anewmethodbasedonlightrefractionisspecifiedforthemeasurementofwavesurfaceelevationinwaveflumeviaimagingtechnology.Aplanepaintedwithblackandwhitestripesisputontheflumefloorasanindicationplane,whichcanbearrangedeasilyandcheaply.Comparedwiththepreviousmethods,thepresentmethodislesssensitivetothenoiseandnonlineareffectsofopticalprocess,whichcanbetakenasadigitalmethod.TheCCDcameraisfixedabovetheflumewithitsopticalaxisarrangedverticallytograbtheimagesofstripesmodulatedbythewavesurface.ThemodulatedvaluecanbecalculatedfromtheHilberttransform,andthenthewavesurfaceelevationcanbeobtained.Thealgorithmandexperimentalprocedurearespecifiedindetail,andsomeexperimentalresultsareprovidedtoshowthevalidityofthepresentmethod.

简介：Alaboratoryexperimentwasconductedinsideawindwavetanktoinvestigatethewaveinducedturbulence.Inthisexperiment,thewavesurfaceelevationandvelocitybeneaththewatersurfaceweremeasuredsimultaneouslytoinvestigatetherelationbetweenthewavestatusandwaveinducedturbulence.TheprofileoftheturbulentdissipationrateandReynoldsstresswerecalculatedusingexperimentaldata.Theeffectofthewavestatusonturbulenceisinvestigatedwithregardtothewindwave,swell,andmixedwaveconditions.Itwasdepictedthattheturbulencedecreasedwithincreasingdepthfromthewatersurfaceandthattheturbulencethatwasinducedbyawavewithlargerwavelengthandwaveheightismuchstrongerforthesamewavestatus.Finally,weobservedthatthewindwaveismoreeffectiveinactivatingthewaveinducedturbulence.

简介：Consideringthatatpresenttheregularwavesincommonusehavetheprofilesymmetrizedtoaverticalaxis,whicharedifferentfromactualwind-drivenseawaves,andbasedonderivinglinearwave,solitarywave,fifthorderStokeswaveandstreamfunctionwavebyusingUnifiedVariationalPrincipleofWaterGravityWave(UVPWGW),thispaperderiveswind-drivenslantingprofilewavebyusingUVPWGW.Itsfeatureisthatundertheactionofwindpressure,thewaveprofileisnotsymmetrizedtoaverticalaxis,butthatitisintheforwardslantingform.

简介：Waveenergyhasdrawnmuchattentionasanachievablewaytoexploittherenewableenergy.Atpresent,inordertoenhancethewaveenergyextraction,mosteffortshavebeenconcentratedonoptimizingthewaveenergyconvertorandthepowertake-offsystemmechanicallyandelectrically.However,focusingthewavepowerinspecificwavefieldcouldalsobeanalternativetoimprovethewaveenergyextraction.Inthisexperimentalstudy,theBraggresonanceeffectisappliedtofocusthewaveenergy.BecausetheBraggresonanceeffectoftherippledbottomlargelyamplifiesthewavereflection,leadingtoasignificantincreaseofwavefocusing.Achievedwithanenergyconversionsystemconsistingofapointabsorberandapermanentmagnetsinglephaselinearmotor,thewaveenergyextractedinthewaveflumewithandwithoutBraggresonanceeffectwasmeasuredandcomparedquantitativelyinexperiment.ItshowsthatenergyextractionbyapointabsorberfromastandingwavefieldresultedfromBraggresonanceeffectcanberemarkablyincreasedcomparedwiththatfromapropagatingwavefield(withoutBraggresonanceeffect).

简介：Theanalysisofthedataofmodeltestsoftwolargedeepwharvesandmonographicexperimentalstudiesshowthattwoaspectsaretobeimprovedsoastopredictthewaveupliftforcesonthebottomofacircularcylinder.Thefirstaspectistheupliftpressuredistributiononthebottom,andthesecondisthecorrectdeterminationofthephaseformaximumhorizontalwaveforces.Thesecondproblemhasbeensolved.Synthesizingtheresultsoftheoreticalanalysisandexperiments,wesuggestadiagramforthedeterminationofthephasewhenthemaximumhorizontalwaveforceappears.Onthebasis-efthediagramthesimultaneouswaveupliftforcescanbeobtainedforthestructuralstabilityanalysis.

简介：-Waverefraction-diffractionduetoalargeoceanstructureandtopographyinthepresenceofa’currentarestudiednumerically.Themathematicalmodelisthemild-slopeequationdevelopedbyKirby(1984).Thisequationissolvedusingafiniteandboundaryelementmethod.Thephysicaldomainisdevid-edintotworegions:aslowlyvaryingtopographyregionandaconstantwaterdepthregion.Forwavespropagatingintheconstantwaterdepthregion,withoutcurrentinterfering,themild-slopeequationisthenreducedtotheHelmholtzequationwhichissolvedbyboundaryelementmethod.Invaryingtopographyregion,thisequationwillbesolvedbyfiniteelementmethod.Conservationofmassandenergyfluxofthefluidbetweenthesetworegionsisrequiredforcompositionofthesetwonumericalmethods.Thenumericalschemeproposedhereiscapableofdealingwithwaterwaveproblemsofdifferentwaterdepthswiththemaincharactersofthesetwomethods.

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简介：真实波浪是multidirectional波浪。在现在的学习，为为产生multidirectional的开车信号挥动的波浪制造者的计算方法在物理波浪盆组织被建议。它的有效性被事件边界条件被建议方法的使用为决定的一个数字模型首先证实。然后，multidirectional波浪组的物理模拟在实验室波浪盆被执行。multidirectional飘动与的试验性的结果表演期望波浪groupiness，它包括不仅它的组高度而且它的组长度，能令人满意地在物理波浪盆在指定位置被产生。